Ocena teme:
  • 0 Glas(ov) - 0 Povprečje
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
revolver .44 mag
#21
(15-04-2016, 13:19)sandiruger Napisal:
(15-04-2016, 12:43)kimber Napisal: Revolver je kompliciran kos orožja in sam še nisem kupil rabljenega S&W (kupil sem okvirje J,K,L in N), ki bi bil 100% brezhiben.

Potem si pa res imel samo ti smolo...
Stari Smithi so zakon..Je pa treba preverit stvari pred nakupom..

Tale kimber me zadnje čase prav pozitivno preseneča z svojimi posti...sandi vse se pokvari nič ni večno niti stari revolverji ne, povedal je po pravici in pika to je podobno kot lastniki golfov ko hvaljo in hvaljo zadeva se pa podira do te mere da ga na kakem seznamu okvar takoj najdeš...seveda moraš iskat od spodaj navzgor he he.
Odgovori
#22
To mi je popolnoma jasno da se vse pokvari,vendar se že na sliki vidi ali so ga fejst matrali ali je bolj ali ležal v trezorju..
Do sedaj sem kupil kar nekaj starih revolverje preko EgUna,pa sem zmeraj dobil boljšega od pričakovanega...lp
Odgovori
#23
Po drugi strani pa nobeden ni bil totalen podn.
Tko da, če se ne valjaš v denarju se rabljena roba lahko splača. O Smitih se mi malo sanja (primerjalno lokalno kar precej), morebiti ti lahko kak kos evaluiram.

Sicer pa ali gre za zbirateljski Dirty Harry (pinned&ricesed) ali alat za pokat?
Odgovori
#24
(15-04-2016, 12:43)kimber Napisal: Praviloma je šla kvaliteta rapidno navzdol pri S&W po prevzemu Freedom Groupa ca.1999-2000. Rabili so nekaj let da so so se kolikor tolikor porihtali. 
Revolver je kompliciran kos orožja in sam še nisem kupil rabljenega S&W (kupil sem okvirje J,K,L in N), ki bi bil 100% brezhiben.

Prav, kimber.

A lahko daš na pol A4 strani, kaj je potrebno preveriti pred nakupom starega S&W 44 mag?

Poravnanost bobniča s cevjo bi rekel jaz kot 'laik' v revolverjih.

Še kaj?
Odgovori
#25
Pol A4 ne bo šlo. Prispevek iz bloga The Firing line:


Revolver checkout:
How to tell if a particular specimen is any good

 
So you're buying a revolver. New, used, doesn't matter, you want a good one, right? 
How do check one over without firing it, right at the dealer's counter or gun show table? 
This is how. All of this works with DA or SA wheelguns..."close the action" on most DAs means swing the cylinder in, on SA types, close the loading gate, on breakopens, close 'em. UNLOADED. 
WARNING: Most of these tests require violation of the "finger off trigger" rule. Therefore, be extremely careful about safe muzzle direction and making sure the gun is unloaded ahead of time, PERSONALLY, as you begin handling it. 
Note: Bring a small flashlight, something small and concentrated. A Photon or similar high-powered LED light is perfect. You also want feeler gauges if you're not used to eyeballing cylinder gaps; at a minimum, bring a .002", .004" and .006". 
Note2: No dry firing is required or desired at any point. It just pisses off the gun's current owner. 
 
Cylinder play
1) With the gun UNLOADED (check for yourself!), close the action. 
2) Thumb the hammer back, and while pulling the trigger, gently lower the hammer all the way down while keeping the trigger back - and KEEP holding the trigger once the hammer is down. (You've now put the gun in "full lockup" - keep it there for this and most other tests.)
3) With the trigger still back all the way, check for cylinder wiggle. Front/back is particularly undesirable; a bit of side to side is OK but it's a bad thing if you can wiggle it one way, let go, and then spin it the other way a fraction of an inch and it stays there too. At the very least, it should "want" to stop in just one place (later, we'll see if that place is any good). The ultimate is a "welded to the frame" feeling.
 
Cylinder gap
4) Still holding the trigger at full lockup, look sideways through the barrel/cylinder gap. If you can get a credit card in there, that ain't good...velocity drops rapidly as the gap increases. Too tight isn't good either, because burnt powder crud will "fill the gap" and start making the cylinder spin funky. My personal .38snubbie is set at .002, usually considered the minimum...after about 40 shots at the range, I have to give the front of the cylinder a quick wipe so it spins free again. I consider that a reasonable tradeoff for the increased velocity because in a real fight, I ain't gonna crank 40 rounds out of a 5-shot snub .
If you're eyeballing it, you'll have to hold it up sideways against an overhead light source.
SAFETY WARNING: This step in particular is where you MUST watch your muzzle direction. Look, part of what's happening here is that you're convincing the seller you know your poop . It helps the haggling process. If you do anything unsafe, that impression comes completely unglued. 
 
Timing
5) You really, REALLY want an unloaded gun for this one. This is where the light comes in. With the gun STILL held in full lockup, trigger back after lowering the hammer by thumb, you want to shine a light right into the area at the rear of the cylinder near the firing pin. You then look down the barrel . You're looking to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the barrel. Check every cylinder - that means putting the gun in full lockup for each cylinder before lighting it up. 
You're looking for the cylinder and barrel holes to line up perfectly, it's easy to eyeball if there's even a faint light source at the very rear of both bores. And with no rounds present, it's generally easy to get some light in past where the rims would be.
 
Bore
(We're finally done with that "full lockup" crap, so rest your trigger finger. )
6) Swing the cylinder open, or with most SAs pull the cylinder. Use the small flashlight to scope the bore out. This part's easy - you want to avoid pitting, worn-out rifling, bulges of any sort. You want more light on the subject than just what creeps in from the rear of the cylinder on the timing check.
You also want to check each cylinder bore, in this case with the light coming in from the FRONT of each hole, you looking in from the back where the primers would be. You're looking for wear at the "restrictions" at the front of each cylinder bore. That's the "forcing cone" area and it can wear rapidly with some Magnum loads. (Special thanks to Salvo below for this bit!)
 
Trigger
7) To test a trigger without dry-firing it, use a plastic pen in front of the hammer to "catch" it with the off hand, especially if it's a "firing pin on the hammer" type. Or see if the seller has any snap-caps, that's the best solution. Flat-faced hammers as found in transfer-bar guns (Ruger, etc) can be caught with the off-hand without too much pain .
SA triggers (or of course a DA with the hammer cocked) should feel "like a glass rod breaking". A tiny amount of take-up slack is tolerable, and is common on anything with a transfer bar or hammerblock safety.
DA triggers are subjective. Some people like a dead-smooth feel from beginning of stroke to the end, with no "warning" that it's about to fire. Others (myself included) actually prefer a slight "hitch" right at the end, so we know when it's about to go. With that sort of trigger, you can actually "hold it" right at the "about to fire" point and do a short light stroke from there that rivals an SA shot for accuracy. Takes a lot of practice though. Either way, you don't want "grinding" through the length of the stroke, and the final stack-up at the end (if any) shouldn't be overly pronounced.
 
Detecting Bad Gunsmithing:
8) OK, so it's got a rock-solid cylinder, a .002" or .003" gap, and the trigger feels great. Odds are vastly in favor of it being tuned after leaving the factory.
So was the gunsmith any good?
First, cock it, then grab the hammer and "wiggle it around" a bit. Not too hard, don't bang on it, but give it a bit of up/down, left/right and circular action with finger off trigger and WATCH your muzzle direction.
You don't want that hammer slipping off an overly polished sear. You REALLY don't want that . It can be fixed by installing factory parts but that'll take modest money (more for installation than hardware costs) and it'll be "bigtime" unsafe until you do.
The other thing that commonly goes wrong is somebody will trim the spring, especially coil springs. You can spot that if you pull the grip panels, see if the spring was trimmed with wire cutters. If they get too wild with it, you'll get ignition failures on harder primers. But the good news is, replacement factory or Wolf springs are cheap both to buy and have installed.
There's also the legal problems Ayoob frequently describes regarding light triggers. If that's a concern, you can either swap back to stock springs, or since you bought it used there's no way to prove you knew it was modified at all .
 
In perspective:
Timing (test #5) is very critical...if that's off, the gun may not even be safe to test-fire. And naturally, a crappy barrel means a relatively pricey fix.
Cylinder gap is particularly critical on short-barreled and/or marginal caliber guns. If you need every possible ounce of energy, a tight gap helps. Some factory gaps will run as high as .006"; Taurus considers .007" "still in spec" (sigh). You'll be hard-pressed to find any new pieces under .004" - probably because the makers realize some people don't clean 'em often (or very well) and might complain about the cylinder binding up if they sell 'em at .002".
The guns in a dealer's "used pile" are often of unknown origin, from estate sales or whatever. Dealers don't have time to check every piece, and often don't know their history. These tests, especially cylinder gap and play, can spot a gun that's been sent off for professional tuning...like my snubbie, the best $180 I ever spent .
As long as the gun is otherwise sound (no cracks, etc) a gunsmith can fix any of this. So these tests can help you pick a particularly good new specimen, or find a good used gun, or help haggle the price down on something that'll need a bit of work.
Hope this helps.
Jim March
Odgovori
#26
(15-04-2016, 19:19)kimber Napisal: Po drugi strani pa nobeden ni bil totalen podn.
Tko da, če se ne valjaš v denarju se rabljena roba lahko splača. O Smitih se mi malo sanja (primerjalno lokalno kar precej), morebiti ti lahko kak kos evaluiram.

Sicer pa ali gre za zbirateljski Dirty Harry (pinned&ricesed) ali alat za pokat?

Hvala za ponudbo. Sem prebral en kup forumov in na koncu bil še bol zmešan kot na začetku, zato sem se odločil, da vzamem novega in je že na poti...

Drugače pa vsekakor ga ne bom na steno obesil, ampak z njim uživati na strelišču.
Odgovori
#27
Tukaj imaš enega za poceni denar..

http://egun.de/market/item.php?id=5930357
Odgovori
#28
(19-04-2016, 12:37)sandiruger Napisal: Tukaj imaš enega za poceni denar..

http://egun.de/market/item.php?id=5930357

Sandi, a ga boš ti peljal v Nemčijo, ker ta tip ne pošilja? Mrgreen
Odgovori
#29
Siljo -če ni skrivnos kaj pa si naroču in kolk je cena?
Odgovori
#30
(19-04-2016, 14:22)turist Napisal:
(19-04-2016, 12:37)sandiruger Napisal: Tukaj imaš enega za poceni denar..

http://egun.de/market/item.php?id=5930357

Sandi, a ga boš ti peljal v Nemčijo, ker ta tip ne pošilja? Mrgreen

Čisto slučajno je ta 10-20km dol z avtoceste, na relaciji, kjer se jaz pogosto vozim skozi.

To prevzeti bi bila mala malca.
Odgovori
#31
Samomse vseeno je najlepši ... 

Taurus Raging Bull Model 444 Stainless 44 Mag Revolver 6.5"
Odgovori
#32
(19-04-2016, 18:01)cepeter Napisal: Samomse vseeno je najlepši ... 

Taurus Raging Bull Model 444 Stainless 44 Mag Revolver 6.5"

Nekam bikast, anede.

Malo sem se zagrel in vidim, da cene res niso visoke, recimo tale:

http://www.egun.de/market/item.php?id=5921171

Super redhawk, 44 mag, 8 3/8 cev.

Cena je 498 €.

Samo morate vedeti, da je to začetna licitacijska cena, ne spomnim pa se, če ima eGun pridržano ceno (torej izpod katere se kos ne proda).

EBay ma rešeno tako, da dobiš obvestilo, da prodaja ni uspela, zaradi pridržane cene, takoj za tem pa ti da ponudbo, ampak mislim, da mora prodajalec to označiti PRED prodajo posebej.

Ampak ta cena je mala.
Odgovori
#33
(19-04-2016, 14:22)turist Napisal:
(19-04-2016, 12:37)sandiruger Napisal: Tukaj imaš enega za poceni denar..

http://egun.de/market/item.php?id=5930357

Sandi, a ga boš ti peljal v Nemčijo, ker ta tip ne pošilja? Mrgreen
Samo pravega trgovca moraš imet pa za soraviš v Slo..
Odgovori
#34
Ni problem pridržana cena, temveč, da lahko prodajalec sam dvigne ceno (licitira) na koncu avkcije, če se mu zdi premajhna.
Ker se transakcija ne spelje preko eguna, ne morejo slediti, če je do nakupa res prišlo in kdo je kupil... večkrat zaslediš, da je kos prodan za neko višjo ceno in se spet pojavi čez dan dva...
lp Melly
Odgovori
#35
(19-04-2016, 22:36)sandiruger Napisal:
(19-04-2016, 14:22)turist Napisal:
(19-04-2016, 12:37)sandiruger Napisal: Tukaj imaš enega za poceni denar..

http://egun.de/market/item.php?id=5930357

Sandi, a ga boš ti peljal v Nemčijo, ker ta tip ne pošilja? Mrgreen
Samo pravega trgovca moraš imet pa za soraviš v Slo..

Kako, ko pa ima izrecno napisano: kein Versand?
Ga ne pošlje niti do trgovca v Nemčiji!

(19-04-2016, 22:44)Melly Napisal: Ni problem pridržana cena, temveč, da lahko prodajalec sam dvigne ceno (licitira) na koncu avkcije, če se mu zdi premajhna.
Ker se transakcija ne spelje preko eguna, ne morejo slediti, če je do nakupa res prišlo in kdo je kupil... večkrat zaslediš, da je kos prodan za neko višjo ceno in se spet pojavi čez dan dva...

Če je Sofort kauf, pa res ni problema , se da slediti in ga lahko prijaviš E-gunu. Sem kupil že kar nekaj artiklov na Sofort kauf, pa nikoli ni bilo problema!
Odgovori
#36
(19-04-2016, 22:44)Melly Napisal: Ni problem pridržana cena, temveč, da lahko prodajalec sam dvigne ceno (licitira) na koncu avkcije, če se mu zdi premajhna.
Ker se transakcija ne spelje preko eguna, ne morejo slediti, če je do nakupa res prišlo in kdo je kupil... večkrat zaslediš, da je kos prodan za neko višjo ceno in se spet pojavi čez dan dva...

Saj to ti je v bistvu isto, samo 'ročno' dviguje ceno.

Jaz s tem nimam problemov. Kupec in prodajalec se morata najti v ceni in materialu.

Če prodajalec vrže 'vabo', se mi ne zdi nič napačnega.

Jaz sem gledal en lep sef, tak res lep. Človek je postavil ceno 1500, kar je bila solidna cena, glede na to, da nov res stane cca 2700 - 2900 €.

Pa se ga nihče ni pritaknil.

Pa se pojavi frajer, da dosti slabšo omaro na ključ (oni ta drugi pa mehanska številčnica), drugače pa mehansko soliden kos (300+ kil). Pa da ceno 80 €. Folk se je stepel.

Pa so nabili ceno na 1300 €, čeprav to je že vprašljivo. Ona za 1500 je bila dosti boljši nakup, samo prodajalec se je napak lotil prodaje.
Odgovori
#37
Turist dej no...A si od včeraj...tud če piše"kein versand"pomeni da ga ne pošilja v tujino..
Do sedaj sem kupil skoraj vse kose iz eguna ki je pisalo kein versand..in ko omeniš da imaš svojega trgovca ni nobenega problema..
Je pa pri tem dobro da mu mail napišeš v nemščini kot pa v angleščini...
Lp
Odgovori
#38
Ne Sandi nisem od včeraj, samo tip je izrecno napisal:

KEIN VERSAND!

Abholung / Übergabe gegen Erwerbsberechtigung nur persönlich
Übergabeort: Waffen-Rabitsch GmbH, Färberstrasse 22, 90402 Nürnberg

Napisano je pa v nemščini! Papers
Odgovori
#39
(19-04-2016, 12:37)sandiruger Napisal: Tukaj imaš enega za poceni denar..

http://egun.de/market/item.php?id=5930357

Ni tapravi. To se je iskalo:
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/wcs/s...rrorView_Y
Odgovori
#40
(20-04-2016, 09:23)turist Napisal: Ne Sandi nisem od včeraj, samo tip je izrecno napisal:

KEIN VERSAND!

Abholung / Übergabe gegen Erwerbsberechtigung nur persönlich
Übergabeort: Waffen-Rabitsch GmbH, Färberstrasse 22, 90402 Nürnberg

Napisano je pa v nemščini! Papers
Pa kaj če piše..še vsak Nemec ki je zavohal ojre se je uklonil.vse se da...
To mene nč ne moti..

(20-04-2016, 09:23)turist Napisal: Ne Sandi nisem od včeraj, samo tip je izrecno napisal:

KEIN VERSAND!

Abholung / Übergabe gegen Erwerbsberechtigung nur persönlich
Übergabeort: Waffen-Rabitsch GmbH, Färberstrasse 22, 90402 Nürnberg

Napisano je pa v nemščini! Papers
Pa kaj če piše..še vsak Nemec ki je zavohal ojre se je uklonil.vse se da...
To mene nč ne moti..
Odgovori




Uporabnikov, ki berejo to temo: 1 Gost(ov)